DIY Backpacker Spa

By special request, here is blog devoted exclusively to a DIY Backpacker Spa.

Trekking the world in flip-flops with a unwieldy backpack that seems perpetually affixed to your body, a backpacking gal deserves a spa night as often as she can get one. Even though some international destinations have beauty treats for the budget-minded girls, these 'fine establishments' don't always give you that pleasant, anticipatory feeling....more like a sensation that makes you duck your head and rush by with great haste, ignoring the sing-song voices trying to lure you into certain discomfort and unease.

So, when you need a break from the dusty trail, try some of these easy, inexpensive, and easy-to-find spa ideas!

SUGAR SCRUB: take a tablespoon of sugar (unrefined works best) and place it in a dampened palm. Mix one drop of shampoo or liquid soap and a few drops of water and apply in circular motions to rough skin. Good for hands, feet, elbows, etc. Wonderful solution for peeling beach skin, overgrown cuticles, itchy feet, and general exfoliation purposes. Make sure you rinse well to avoid sticky skin. Licking off the sugar is a possibility but not recommended (remember the soap....).

JOJOBA OIL: A little bit of jojoba goes a looooong way. Add a few drops to the palm of your hand, rub hands together to warm, then apply to face, hands, legs, arms, anywhere! Jojoba is the closest thing to the composition of natural skin oil, so it's great for every part of your body. Also great for dry scalps and chapped lips. Great option for a hot oil treatment for hair: microwave a small amount and then apply to hair (especially to the ends). Let sit for 30 minutes, shampoo/condition as usual.

UMBRELLA SPA: Yearning for a sauna? You need look no further than the bathtub in your (hopefully more quaint than questionable) hostel room. Run the bath hot, hot, hot, then climb in. Open an umbrella above your head (the possibility of bad luck is SO worth the risk) and let the steam collect under it, enveloping your mind and head in soft, thick warmth. Settle back, smile, and ignore the other backpackers banging on the door.

TEA TREE OIL: A natural antiseptic, tea tree oil is a potent oil from Australia. A drop mixed with water makes a great face toner, killing bacteria and germs and backpacking grime build-up. Add a few drops to a small tub for soaking tired feet. In a hot bath, tea tree oil will help congestion and cough, invigorating your senses!

TEA BATH: No matter where you are, herbs and spices are sure to be found. Shop around for some local treats to add to bathtime! Favorites of mine were Jasmine Tea Bath in China, Dried Rose Bud Bath in Morocco, Mint Tea Bath in Egypt, Rosemary Bath in Italy, and Lavender Bath in France. Be a tea bag and soak for a while!

AVOCADO: Not just for guacamole anymore! As a certain friend might vividly remember, avocado is filled with nourishing oils and is just the ticket to soothing dry, parched skin (especially sunburns). Slather it on, let it sit, rinse. Try not to use soap, as it will strip away the lovely oils that have soaked into your skin. Serve nachos or burritos for dinner in a dimly-lit room and hope that your friends don't notice your funny smell or greenish tinge.

On the road or nestled at home, have a backpacker spa night!

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Happy Ramadan!

Today begins Ramadan, the Islamic month of fasting for the sake of God. Wishing all of our Muslim friends a healthy, peaceful, and prosperous Ramadan, In ša Allah (pronounced in-sha-lah, means “God-willing” in Arabic). We especially think of those in Morocco, as we recover from the scorching heat and dusty, dry weather of Marrakech. During Ramadan, Muslims fast from sunrise to sundown, abstaining from both food and water. Imagine this task when the daily temperature is 40°C, and when sunset does not occur until 9:30PM! The month of Ramadan is variable, and moves backward ten days in the Islamic calendar each year. 

Blue Mosque - Istanbul

“The act of fasting is said to redirect the heart away from worldly activities, its purpose being to cleanse the inner soul and free it from harm. It also allows Muslims to practice self-discipline, self-control, sacrifice, and empathy for those who are less fortunate; thus encouraging actions of generosity and charity.”

-Ramadan, Wikipedia, August 9, 2010

But we are in France, not Marrakech, and the atmosphere is decidedly different. Having happily landed on the lovely Rue du Gril, we are staying just down the street from the Great Mosque of Paris, built in 1926. which provides a rich visual reminder of the ornate mosques of Morocco. A beautiful and towering structure, the Paris Mosque shines as a beacon after long days wandering the hard streets of Paris in less-than-supportive flat, hard, leather Moroccan flip flips (eco-friendly doesn’t always mean body-friendly). The combination of the inappropriate footwear, and the richly-tiled, ornate minaret, always serve to remind us of Morocco as we are limping home.

Hassan II Mosque - Casablanca

Estimates state that Islam comprises the second most widely practiced religion in France, based on worshippers. However, it is evident that Islam battles for rights and equality in France: discrimination in the form of banned headscarves, a newly proposed French ban on the burka, a ban on face-veils in public institutions, and discrimination in employment. For many years, France has maintained laïcité, the concept of a secular society that mandates the separation of religion and state, including the absence of involvement of either in the other. While originally intended to treat all religions equally, some argue that this objective has fallen by the wayside. Laïcité is described as the reason for bans on headscarves, face-veils, and (recently) burqas in France.

However, before you get all up-in-arms about these topics, let’s review them, so that everyone is a little more educated:

Headscarves: Earliest reference to French opposition to headscarves dates to 1989 when three Muslim schoolgirls refused to remove their headscarves. Teachers were referencing laïcité when they requested the removal, stating that the “Islamic headscarf” was a symbol of religious expression. Think what you will on that. In 2003, President Chirac extended the law against religious expression in schools to include large crosses, hijabs, yarmulkes, and other overly large demonstrative objects.

Burqa: In 2009, President Sarkozy proposed a ban on the public wearing of a burqa, following the bank robbery of two individuals dressed anonymously in burqas. However, rather than reference this incident, the President says instead that the burqa “was a symbol of subservience that suppresses women's identities and turns them into ‘prisoners behind a screen.‘” Hmm…I remember not so long ago when I wanted to wear a burqa, simply to hide from the over-interested stares of men in India.

Employment: A recent study found that three nearly-identical resumes, with differences that indicated religious associations, discriminated against followers of Islam. The researchers showed that Christians in France were 2.5 times more likely than Muslims to receive a positive response to their job applications, and that Muslims in France made an average of 400 euros less than Christians per month.

Face-veil: A recent recommendation to French parliament calls for the ban of face-veils in public institutions, but not in private buildings or on the streets.

I imagine that part of the bans on these objects are for the safety of citizens: outward discrimination against Islam has a history of violence and aggression. Another reason can be found in the “burqa bank robbers:” face-veils, burqas and headscarves can be used to mask the identity of criminals. But employment discrimination? I really can’t see another side to that story.

When we first arrived at this incredible Parisian flat four days ago, we were delighted to find the mosque next door. Through our many months traveling through Muslim countries, I have developed a strong affinity to the daily calls to prayer - they are similar to a church bell tolling, though with a very different tone. But the sound signifies to me a message to the community, a melody of cohesion and unity for those who identify with its call. And for those who don’t fully identify with the meaning behind the call (such as yours truly), I am still drawn to the participatory and engaging tonal hum.

Great Mosque of Paris

 Yet, the Paris Mosque is quieter than we expected. Tourists come and go from its ornate green tiled doorway throughout the day, but the calls to prayer are muted, or possibly non-existent. We heard one the first day, but it was ever-so-quiet and the duration was no more than thirty seconds. This absence is so different from the Islamic countries that we have thus far traveled through: India, Ethiopia, Ghana and Togo, Egypt, Turkey, Morocco. The quiet is almost unsettling. But perhaps this will change as the holy days of Ramadan begin to pass.

Bon Ramadan!  Ramadan mobarak!   Ramadan Kareem. رمضان مبارك

for additional reading, check out the links in the article, and read this funny little story from "Rue Rude."

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Un Dia Gratis

August 2, 2010

We want to go to the Prado. It is within our grasp now.... instead we spend a day embracing the city as it is.

Today, we went to community art centers, foundation museums, centers for alternative work and thought and action. We just went out and took in Madrid. And, it did not costs us more than our lunch.


We are couchsurfers. Normally, we would have planned our trip in Europe around visits with new friends. This time we have a nice hotel we like and we are not inclined to move. We are in the last month of an over-extended honeymoon. We are treating ourselves special - and that feels right. No better city, we figure, to treat yourself special than Madrid, Spain. Madrid is a city for lifestyle lovers - a pioneering culture of quality of life ethos.

Remember, we are hotel owners first, hostel providers, tour operators; even if our businesses are small, our first love was getting to know travelers in backpacker guest houses - and we like to give back! We want to spend money locally as we have it. Plus, it is nice to have your private balcony overlooking the square and no one counting on your conversation save your beloved.


Please join us once again as we ramble. We cover the tiny alleys and vignettes without you here, so please forgive us our lack of details - what is important is the feeling - the free travel by design. Our pace, our joys, our happenstance endings are what we do best as travelers.

Museums - What are we doing. Political acts, saying things that are not said in mainstream, open to all, working, all ages. What we are doing with museums is to survey and feel our humanity.


Museums have so much in the way of education, of shared experiences. But, they are also storage sheds. More often, they are examples of historical reservoirs. They contain residues of what we choose to remember. We prefer museums and exhibits which challenge us and our society. Often, just by going to museums we provoke new ideas and creativity in ourselves. There is a tried and true difference between Big National, famous collections and the work that is taking place in small contemporary public spaces. We would not suggest that you miss any of it. But, for our 'dia gratis' we stuck to those of the beaten path. We found these uncrowded, filled with challenging and exciting materials, and very very contemporary.

Other spontaneous adventures we had along the way: lying in Retiro park, visiting rose gardens, and finding a graffiti park - built over parking garages tucked behind Retiro Park.

That is but a small taste of what we did and saw this one day. When we are in these amazing historic cities it is always clear that a lifetime would not be enough to explore them, to learn their intricacies and most intimate and personalized magic. Madrid is this way. Madrid has an aura of history. Its people are wonderfully individualistic, personal, self-confident, engaged, open.

Other great free options we have discovered in Madrid include the Train Station, Archeological Museum, The National Library, and Exhibits on Government Planning, and Urban History at Los Nuevos Ministerios -which has a nice park garden that is great for picnicking (or, if you are looking for another cool picnic spot try totally hidden but surrounded by dense offices and shopping plazas Plaza de Picasso - sorry no Picassos - but a great fountain, quiet, and lots of cool shade!).

Of course, there were things we had to pay for on this day of free Madrid. We walked, but we would have just as easily enjoyed the bus or Metro. Ten passes are 10 Euro, and may be used by multiple riders. We paid for a great hotel. We had a fantastic $20 lunch in Madrid.


Spaniards take lunch as the most important meal. It is large, usually three course. We like to split the lunch and order a smaller side dish or salad. This keeps our price lower and leaves room for drinks and tip for under $20.

We think and talk and write a lot about how to explain to people what we do. It is not how we do it that is important. How you do it is your own thing. But, when we choose to attend the free hours at the museum, we do so as supporters of the arts. We would like to think we find other ways to contribute, support, and spread our love of art around. We go to smaller museums, attend special exhibits, patronize small galleries, and buy art from artists whenever we can.

****

Contraposition - there is another choice for what to do with a day in Madrid. It is surprisingly cheap - the cost is $40 ticket for 24 hours of use for the Madrid Tourist Pass. After all we describe that can be done for nothing - why do it? Because it too provides a way of seeing things. This could be the marathon adventure. You could challenge yourself to try and see as much as possible : Having a museum pass (and a 10 euro Metro pass) will allow you to see much more than you ever thought possible in one city in 24 hours. This route asks you to see things opposite of what we described above asking yourself, 'what happens differently in a rush'?


Magic is always happening around us - how we choose to encounter it is personal. We do choose - we twist and alter our fates accordingly.

Un dia gratis - un otro dia de gracias!!

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Family Heirlooms

Our friend is a kind man; a generous man. When we are out in the souks, struggling to keep pace with his long brown legs, I rarely understand the words that float into heavy airless stalls, nestle among great stacks of weighty carpets, or reverberate in spaces filled with brass and copper. But I understand the smiles and friendship and the joy felt by his friends and acquaintances that we pass. El Sharif is a respected man, a man to be admired. He has held the American Dream in the palm of his hand and seen his own face reflected in its glossy sheen.

And yet, his heart is Moroccan. He is concerned with cultural preservation and traditional art forms. He performs as an ambassador for those who have the privilege of spending time with him, sharing his intimate knowledge of Mococco’s rich culture and history. He actually appears to enjoy having the silly Americans tag along, and our appreciation seems to be sufficient reciprocation.

His model of generosity is one to emulate. Along with cash offerings to those we encounter, El Sharif also passes out smiles and jokes and laughter and intimate banter to those we pass. The impact of these heartfelt interactions is tangible; the dark stalls brighten with beaming grins and conversation. His ability to reach out and connect with those around him, as he winds through the dense markets is a language he has been practicing since he was a child, spending time in the carpet markets with his father. It's a family tradition, like so many that we encounter in this part of the world. 

Knowledge and networks are family heirlooms here in Morocco, with the same imperfections and sentimental values that we associate with our antique armoires and family jewelry. They are cherished and honored and passed down through generations, collecting dust and stories and worn edges.

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Rewards for Travelers of Time and Patience

Two key ingredients which we have found for enjoying and getting the most out of your travel are patience and time.

One must have the patience to enjoy your time. And you get more time with patience. We have been told this any number of ways by other travelers and locals we met.

A reader may be surprised to know that we cannot describe with any confidence places that we have been in Japan, Italy, Egypt or the Balkans (and yet, we have impressions and still might recommend them).

Due to our impatience or to a lack of time when visiting these wonderful lands, the times there have faded quickly. What we do have from each are place markers signaling to return whenever we can.

But, could we have done any differently?

There are experiences which linger. Even in Morocco, where I am writing now, I might best describe a moment, a sound. We just have acquired enough patience to be in a new land.

We have still not described above what is for time to come to a traveler. But, finding time or living it - it has its own rewards.

Time is strange. Time is often blurred with jetlag, different daylights, late nights, or morning confusion waking up to an uncertain new space. It is lit up, fluorescent, flickering, passing.

Time is never within our control - and that is its reward. Time is less our control while traveling. It will take place when we let it, no sooner.

The rewards of these qualities which are critical to finding your way out of tourism and into new forms of in-place, culturally contacted, and local travel are Time and Patience.

It is hard to visit any place quickly and get more than cursory glances of a passer-by, [train] stations, and blurry highways.

Being patient, however, earns friendship and respect abroad.

[This blog I would partly connect to not traveling as light as possible - more weight on your shoulders (or precious cargo) - less inspirationally jumping to places without planning. Time is patient.]

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In the Riad (for Mohamed)

Sound hardly reaches here. It is lonely from sound.

Sound reaches; but it is broken like by deep distant canyon's roar or a steep mountain valley whistle. It is silence of mind.

There are bird sounds, but most like a rustle.

Every once in a while, a daytime awareness, the mind listens.

It believes there is a city around me, around here, outside the door.



Last night, I caught a wedding celebration in a corner of my dreams.

Distant, the movements of long fluted horns, may be a parade stomp.

Light, drawn down in shadows, lengthens these notes.

There is drought in the tiny chatters. Drought in shadows.



At night, there is a donkey braying.

Braying at the yard. The yard by the large gate.

My wife says, “All over the world, mules are mistreated.” I agree.

There is drought in the tiny chambers.

We open the door and go out.

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Global Directions

Bonjour from Morocco! We've been adrift from the blog, caught in the whirlwind of our final few months of circling the globe. But today, as we wandered through the streets of Casablanca I realized something: this journey is only just beginning. Perhaps "honey service year" will ultimately describe this initial year of exploration, a time when the iridescent bubbles of thoughts and ideas and projects first began to take shape. But the time frame shall truly only describe this first step, for now that our journey has begun, I see no end in sight. Although our bodies may not always be in motion, it seems that our minds and energies and efforts always will be. How fantastic!

Traveling helps to deepen my faith in humanity, my trust in people, my belief that people are inherently good and helpful and filled with care for others. So much of the global media works to dissuade these sentiments - coverage of terrorist activities and radical religions and tyrannical oppressors and political activism keep the world on edge and pull people apart. We must direct our conversations and our movements toward positivity - why spend critical hours discussing the differences, the dislikes, the problems, rather than working towards solutions that can unify us as a people and make positive global changes?

There are so many points upon which we can come together. There are so many common themes among people. There are so many similarities and commonalities and positivity that can be explored, if we just take the time to share, to ask, to listen.

And aren’t there great global themes which impact us all? Aren’t we modern day proselytizers when we try to convert others to the doctrine of recycling and reuse and carpooling? Suddenly the work of N’s family so long ago in India and our motivations to share concepts that can positively impact our changing world don‘t seem as different as they once did.

The shiny blue and green globe that we call home continues to shrink...do you feel it too?

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