Happy Ramadan!

Today begins Ramadan, the Islamic month of fasting for the sake of God. Wishing all of our Muslim friends a healthy, peaceful, and prosperous Ramadan, In ša Allah (pronounced in-sha-lah, means “God-willing” in Arabic). We especially think of those in Morocco, as we recover from the scorching heat and dusty, dry weather of Marrakech. During Ramadan, Muslims fast from sunrise to sundown, abstaining from both food and water. Imagine this task when the daily temperature is 40°C, and when sunset does not occur until 9:30PM! The month of Ramadan is variable, and moves backward ten days in the Islamic calendar each year. 

Blue Mosque - Istanbul

“The act of fasting is said to redirect the heart away from worldly activities, its purpose being to cleanse the inner soul and free it from harm. It also allows Muslims to practice self-discipline, self-control, sacrifice, and empathy for those who are less fortunate; thus encouraging actions of generosity and charity.”

-Ramadan, Wikipedia, August 9, 2010

But we are in France, not Marrakech, and the atmosphere is decidedly different. Having happily landed on the lovely Rue du Gril, we are staying just down the street from the Great Mosque of Paris, built in 1926. which provides a rich visual reminder of the ornate mosques of Morocco. A beautiful and towering structure, the Paris Mosque shines as a beacon after long days wandering the hard streets of Paris in less-than-supportive flat, hard, leather Moroccan flip flips (eco-friendly doesn’t always mean body-friendly). The combination of the inappropriate footwear, and the richly-tiled, ornate minaret, always serve to remind us of Morocco as we are limping home.

Hassan II Mosque - Casablanca

Estimates state that Islam comprises the second most widely practiced religion in France, based on worshippers. However, it is evident that Islam battles for rights and equality in France: discrimination in the form of banned headscarves, a newly proposed French ban on the burka, a ban on face-veils in public institutions, and discrimination in employment. For many years, France has maintained laïcité, the concept of a secular society that mandates the separation of religion and state, including the absence of involvement of either in the other. While originally intended to treat all religions equally, some argue that this objective has fallen by the wayside. Laïcité is described as the reason for bans on headscarves, face-veils, and (recently) burqas in France.

However, before you get all up-in-arms about these topics, let’s review them, so that everyone is a little more educated:

Headscarves: Earliest reference to French opposition to headscarves dates to 1989 when three Muslim schoolgirls refused to remove their headscarves. Teachers were referencing laïcité when they requested the removal, stating that the “Islamic headscarf” was a symbol of religious expression. Think what you will on that. In 2003, President Chirac extended the law against religious expression in schools to include large crosses, hijabs, yarmulkes, and other overly large demonstrative objects.

Burqa: In 2009, President Sarkozy proposed a ban on the public wearing of a burqa, following the bank robbery of two individuals dressed anonymously in burqas. However, rather than reference this incident, the President says instead that the burqa “was a symbol of subservience that suppresses women's identities and turns them into ‘prisoners behind a screen.‘” Hmm…I remember not so long ago when I wanted to wear a burqa, simply to hide from the over-interested stares of men in India.

Employment: A recent study found that three nearly-identical resumes, with differences that indicated religious associations, discriminated against followers of Islam. The researchers showed that Christians in France were 2.5 times more likely than Muslims to receive a positive response to their job applications, and that Muslims in France made an average of 400 euros less than Christians per month.

Face-veil: A recent recommendation to French parliament calls for the ban of face-veils in public institutions, but not in private buildings or on the streets.

I imagine that part of the bans on these objects are for the safety of citizens: outward discrimination against Islam has a history of violence and aggression. Another reason can be found in the “burqa bank robbers:” face-veils, burqas and headscarves can be used to mask the identity of criminals. But employment discrimination? I really can’t see another side to that story.

When we first arrived at this incredible Parisian flat four days ago, we were delighted to find the mosque next door. Through our many months traveling through Muslim countries, I have developed a strong affinity to the daily calls to prayer - they are similar to a church bell tolling, though with a very different tone. But the sound signifies to me a message to the community, a melody of cohesion and unity for those who identify with its call. And for those who don’t fully identify with the meaning behind the call (such as yours truly), I am still drawn to the participatory and engaging tonal hum.

Great Mosque of Paris

 Yet, the Paris Mosque is quieter than we expected. Tourists come and go from its ornate green tiled doorway throughout the day, but the calls to prayer are muted, or possibly non-existent. We heard one the first day, but it was ever-so-quiet and the duration was no more than thirty seconds. This absence is so different from the Islamic countries that we have thus far traveled through: India, Ethiopia, Ghana and Togo, Egypt, Turkey, Morocco. The quiet is almost unsettling. But perhaps this will change as the holy days of Ramadan begin to pass.

Bon Ramadan!  Ramadan mobarak!   Ramadan Kareem. رمضان مبارك

for additional reading, check out the links in the article, and read this funny little story from "Rue Rude."

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Delta Dreams

One of my dearest friends has carved out a niche for herself in Mississippi. Even though I am in Marrakech, my thoughts are drawn to the Delta, for Facebook tells me that Robin is beginning the long trip, driving from the Pacific Northwest down to the sticky south. She has a deadline: the Sunflower River Blues and Gospel Festival starts in two weeks, and she undoubtedly has a long task list before the Acoustic Stage is ready!

Robin is a merchant marine, but she moonlights as the owner and MC of an open-air blues venue in Clarksdale, Mississippi. Don’t you just love it? Especially since Clarksdale is more than 350 miles from the closest sea. Robin loves a good project. She will perhaps argue that the projects find her, rather than the other way around. But I know better.

Along with ongoing home design and improvement projects in the Pacific Northwest, Robin is also in the process of renovating and restoring an old 1950s movie theater in Clarksdale: The New Roxy. When Robin purchased the building several years ago, the interior was filled with debris, rotting wood, and pervasive poison ivy. The roof was missing, and a precarious balcony hung by a thread. The original marquee still proudly hung above the double theater doors, but the New Roxy suffered from an accumulated twenty-five years of neglect

With a strong commitment to preserving the original layout and historical elements of the New Roxy, work has been steady and positive for the past two years. Film and photograph documentation ensure that the history of the New Roxy and of its placement in the neighborhood is documented. With a rich history that includes serves as the first place of employment for the teenaged Ike Turner, as well as for many other youth of the town, the New Roxy holds rich and important memories and reminiscences for the local community. Thanks to help from locals, friends, and with great personal determination, Robin has lifted this dilapidated theater from its lowly position as an eyesore and discarded relic, to a position of importance and recognition at the annual Sunflower Festival. And this festival-related status is just the beginning, just a glimpse into the impact of the New Roxy project.

see more photos of the New Roxy on myspace

If you stick around a little while, you realize that Robin’s hard physical labor and her commitment to the New Roxy has a more profound effect. Neighbors come by to check the progress and offer assistance. Stories are told (and actually listened to and oftentimes recorded) about the history of the New Roxy and its role in the Clarksdale community. Robin’s presence in Clarksdale is careful, and thoughtful, and respectful. She visits as often as she can, and strives to ensure that her contributions are ultimately positive for the town.

Robin has turned her personal interest in and passion for the delta blues into a project that has implications for the greater community. I continue to be impressed by her accomplishments and dedication to causes greater than her own.

“Working to restore and resurrect the theater is a labor of love, for the music, for the culture and for the way the two come together.” - Robin, New Roxy website

This year, the New Roxy will be featuring acoustic blues, including the great names of Charles Fowler, Foster "Tater" Wiley, Bill Abel & Cadillac John, Jimmy "Duck" Holmes, Kenny Brown, and Johnny Lowe Bow.

Are you feeling restless? Bored and ready for an adventure? Consider heading to Clarksdale for the Sunflower Festival! I predict that it will be just the first of a soon-to-be annual trip. Stop by the acoustic stage and show your recognition of Robin’s hard work by purchasing a “New Roxy” t-shirt; proceeds go towards the renovation and restoration of the theater. Or, if you are looking for a project yourself, consider volunteering with the New Roxy and contributing your skills and talents to a community project. Contact details and more information can be found at the New Roxy website. Also check out Robin’s blog, titled: “Dispatches from the Delta."

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