Happy Ramadan!

Today begins Ramadan, the Islamic month of fasting for the sake of God. Wishing all of our Muslim friends a healthy, peaceful, and prosperous Ramadan, In ša Allah (pronounced in-sha-lah, means “God-willing” in Arabic). We especially think of those in Morocco, as we recover from the scorching heat and dusty, dry weather of Marrakech. During Ramadan, Muslims fast from sunrise to sundown, abstaining from both food and water. Imagine this task when the daily temperature is 40°C, and when sunset does not occur until 9:30PM! The month of Ramadan is variable, and moves backward ten days in the Islamic calendar each year. 

Blue Mosque - Istanbul

“The act of fasting is said to redirect the heart away from worldly activities, its purpose being to cleanse the inner soul and free it from harm. It also allows Muslims to practice self-discipline, self-control, sacrifice, and empathy for those who are less fortunate; thus encouraging actions of generosity and charity.”

-Ramadan, Wikipedia, August 9, 2010

But we are in France, not Marrakech, and the atmosphere is decidedly different. Having happily landed on the lovely Rue du Gril, we are staying just down the street from the Great Mosque of Paris, built in 1926. which provides a rich visual reminder of the ornate mosques of Morocco. A beautiful and towering structure, the Paris Mosque shines as a beacon after long days wandering the hard streets of Paris in less-than-supportive flat, hard, leather Moroccan flip flips (eco-friendly doesn’t always mean body-friendly). The combination of the inappropriate footwear, and the richly-tiled, ornate minaret, always serve to remind us of Morocco as we are limping home.

Hassan II Mosque - Casablanca

Estimates state that Islam comprises the second most widely practiced religion in France, based on worshippers. However, it is evident that Islam battles for rights and equality in France: discrimination in the form of banned headscarves, a newly proposed French ban on the burka, a ban on face-veils in public institutions, and discrimination in employment. For many years, France has maintained laïcité, the concept of a secular society that mandates the separation of religion and state, including the absence of involvement of either in the other. While originally intended to treat all religions equally, some argue that this objective has fallen by the wayside. Laïcité is described as the reason for bans on headscarves, face-veils, and (recently) burqas in France.

However, before you get all up-in-arms about these topics, let’s review them, so that everyone is a little more educated:

Headscarves: Earliest reference to French opposition to headscarves dates to 1989 when three Muslim schoolgirls refused to remove their headscarves. Teachers were referencing laïcité when they requested the removal, stating that the “Islamic headscarf” was a symbol of religious expression. Think what you will on that. In 2003, President Chirac extended the law against religious expression in schools to include large crosses, hijabs, yarmulkes, and other overly large demonstrative objects.

Burqa: In 2009, President Sarkozy proposed a ban on the public wearing of a burqa, following the bank robbery of two individuals dressed anonymously in burqas. However, rather than reference this incident, the President says instead that the burqa “was a symbol of subservience that suppresses women's identities and turns them into ‘prisoners behind a screen.‘” Hmm…I remember not so long ago when I wanted to wear a burqa, simply to hide from the over-interested stares of men in India.

Employment: A recent study found that three nearly-identical resumes, with differences that indicated religious associations, discriminated against followers of Islam. The researchers showed that Christians in France were 2.5 times more likely than Muslims to receive a positive response to their job applications, and that Muslims in France made an average of 400 euros less than Christians per month.

Face-veil: A recent recommendation to French parliament calls for the ban of face-veils in public institutions, but not in private buildings or on the streets.

I imagine that part of the bans on these objects are for the safety of citizens: outward discrimination against Islam has a history of violence and aggression. Another reason can be found in the “burqa bank robbers:” face-veils, burqas and headscarves can be used to mask the identity of criminals. But employment discrimination? I really can’t see another side to that story.

When we first arrived at this incredible Parisian flat four days ago, we were delighted to find the mosque next door. Through our many months traveling through Muslim countries, I have developed a strong affinity to the daily calls to prayer - they are similar to a church bell tolling, though with a very different tone. But the sound signifies to me a message to the community, a melody of cohesion and unity for those who identify with its call. And for those who don’t fully identify with the meaning behind the call (such as yours truly), I am still drawn to the participatory and engaging tonal hum.

Great Mosque of Paris

 Yet, the Paris Mosque is quieter than we expected. Tourists come and go from its ornate green tiled doorway throughout the day, but the calls to prayer are muted, or possibly non-existent. We heard one the first day, but it was ever-so-quiet and the duration was no more than thirty seconds. This absence is so different from the Islamic countries that we have thus far traveled through: India, Ethiopia, Ghana and Togo, Egypt, Turkey, Morocco. The quiet is almost unsettling. But perhaps this will change as the holy days of Ramadan begin to pass.

Bon Ramadan!  Ramadan mobarak!   Ramadan Kareem. رمضان مبارك

for additional reading, check out the links in the article, and read this funny little story from "Rue Rude."

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A Blog for Chris (or, What to Pack for Egypt)

What to wear in Egypt? As per the general rule for short-term travelers, pack lightly and buy things there. Egypt is predominantly Muslim, so a headscarf will be necessary for visiting the many beautiful mosques. The headscarf may also make you feel more comfortable….all the girls are doing it! In the same cover-up style, most women wear long skirts and long-sleeve shirts. As a foreigner you always get a passcard and people don’t think too much of it when your arms and legs are bare. However, as long as you don’t open your mouth (unless you speak Arabic), and you are wearing longsleeves and long skirt, you can pass for Egyptian….this can sometimes be more comfortable than the oggles and stares. Egyptian girls wear tank tops, but only over lycra long-sleeve shirts.

A month ago, Alexandria was windy and cool. I was happy to have a light sweatshirt and long pants. However, the wind was also a bit sassy and I had a few unexpected ‘Marilyn moments.’

If balloon/Arabian-style pants are all the rage where you live (I have no idea, I‘ve been gone so long), and you love them, there are great ones to buy in Egypt. Cairo is also filled with expansive shoe stores with plenty of greek-style sandals and fancy heels.

If you plan on swimming at the beach, bring a modest suit, or prepare yourself for the dramatic statement you will make. Or you could also buy a very appropriate full-body swimsuit once you arrive.

Consider bringing a floppy hat to beat the heat, especially if you aren’t keen on the headscarf. I found that a scarf tied around my head really helped to block some of the hottest sun rays. Millions of headscarves in all hues and patterns can be found for very cheap all over Cairo.

I functioned quite well in my flip-flops and wore nothing else. But as previously mentioned, you can find some great shoes upon arrival if you find yourself in need of some stilettos or fun sandals.

But really, nothing more specific comes to mind. Bring comfortable stuff, but leave lots of room in your bag for new things you will buy in Cairo! 

Can't wait to see you.

xoxoxo

brittany

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