Happy Ramadan!

Today begins Ramadan, the Islamic month of fasting for the sake of God. Wishing all of our Muslim friends a healthy, peaceful, and prosperous Ramadan, In ša Allah (pronounced in-sha-lah, means “God-willing” in Arabic). We especially think of those in Morocco, as we recover from the scorching heat and dusty, dry weather of Marrakech. During Ramadan, Muslims fast from sunrise to sundown, abstaining from both food and water. Imagine this task when the daily temperature is 40°C, and when sunset does not occur until 9:30PM! The month of Ramadan is variable, and moves backward ten days in the Islamic calendar each year. 

Blue Mosque - Istanbul

“The act of fasting is said to redirect the heart away from worldly activities, its purpose being to cleanse the inner soul and free it from harm. It also allows Muslims to practice self-discipline, self-control, sacrifice, and empathy for those who are less fortunate; thus encouraging actions of generosity and charity.”

-Ramadan, Wikipedia, August 9, 2010

But we are in France, not Marrakech, and the atmosphere is decidedly different. Having happily landed on the lovely Rue du Gril, we are staying just down the street from the Great Mosque of Paris, built in 1926. which provides a rich visual reminder of the ornate mosques of Morocco. A beautiful and towering structure, the Paris Mosque shines as a beacon after long days wandering the hard streets of Paris in less-than-supportive flat, hard, leather Moroccan flip flips (eco-friendly doesn’t always mean body-friendly). The combination of the inappropriate footwear, and the richly-tiled, ornate minaret, always serve to remind us of Morocco as we are limping home.

Hassan II Mosque - Casablanca

Estimates state that Islam comprises the second most widely practiced religion in France, based on worshippers. However, it is evident that Islam battles for rights and equality in France: discrimination in the form of banned headscarves, a newly proposed French ban on the burka, a ban on face-veils in public institutions, and discrimination in employment. For many years, France has maintained laïcité, the concept of a secular society that mandates the separation of religion and state, including the absence of involvement of either in the other. While originally intended to treat all religions equally, some argue that this objective has fallen by the wayside. Laïcité is described as the reason for bans on headscarves, face-veils, and (recently) burqas in France.

However, before you get all up-in-arms about these topics, let’s review them, so that everyone is a little more educated:

Headscarves: Earliest reference to French opposition to headscarves dates to 1989 when three Muslim schoolgirls refused to remove their headscarves. Teachers were referencing laïcité when they requested the removal, stating that the “Islamic headscarf” was a symbol of religious expression. Think what you will on that. In 2003, President Chirac extended the law against religious expression in schools to include large crosses, hijabs, yarmulkes, and other overly large demonstrative objects.

Burqa: In 2009, President Sarkozy proposed a ban on the public wearing of a burqa, following the bank robbery of two individuals dressed anonymously in burqas. However, rather than reference this incident, the President says instead that the burqa “was a symbol of subservience that suppresses women's identities and turns them into ‘prisoners behind a screen.‘” Hmm…I remember not so long ago when I wanted to wear a burqa, simply to hide from the over-interested stares of men in India.

Employment: A recent study found that three nearly-identical resumes, with differences that indicated religious associations, discriminated against followers of Islam. The researchers showed that Christians in France were 2.5 times more likely than Muslims to receive a positive response to their job applications, and that Muslims in France made an average of 400 euros less than Christians per month.

Face-veil: A recent recommendation to French parliament calls for the ban of face-veils in public institutions, but not in private buildings or on the streets.

I imagine that part of the bans on these objects are for the safety of citizens: outward discrimination against Islam has a history of violence and aggression. Another reason can be found in the “burqa bank robbers:” face-veils, burqas and headscarves can be used to mask the identity of criminals. But employment discrimination? I really can’t see another side to that story.

When we first arrived at this incredible Parisian flat four days ago, we were delighted to find the mosque next door. Through our many months traveling through Muslim countries, I have developed a strong affinity to the daily calls to prayer - they are similar to a church bell tolling, though with a very different tone. But the sound signifies to me a message to the community, a melody of cohesion and unity for those who identify with its call. And for those who don’t fully identify with the meaning behind the call (such as yours truly), I am still drawn to the participatory and engaging tonal hum.

Great Mosque of Paris

 Yet, the Paris Mosque is quieter than we expected. Tourists come and go from its ornate green tiled doorway throughout the day, but the calls to prayer are muted, or possibly non-existent. We heard one the first day, but it was ever-so-quiet and the duration was no more than thirty seconds. This absence is so different from the Islamic countries that we have thus far traveled through: India, Ethiopia, Ghana and Togo, Egypt, Turkey, Morocco. The quiet is almost unsettling. But perhaps this will change as the holy days of Ramadan begin to pass.

Bon Ramadan!  Ramadan mobarak!   Ramadan Kareem. رمضان مبارك

for additional reading, check out the links in the article, and read this funny little story from "Rue Rude."

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A Day at the Beach

On our last day in Alexandria, we went to the beach. I was feeling rather risqué in my mid-calf length skirt and high-necked t-shirt, with a shawl draped loosely around my hair and shoulders. This is a pretty standard outfit of mine, and happens to be the second favorite out of my three. Though a bit wild for wandering the streets of Cairo, this naughty little number caused even more of a scene at the beach. But why?

Obviously some one had been here before. Expectations and assumptions had been created in regards to foreigners at the beach. All eyes were upon us and people tittered at our presence even more than usual. I could only imagine the conversations: “Hey! Look at those foreigners! Maybe they are going to strip off their clothing and run around like lunatics in bikinis and speedos!”

I felt no sadness in disappointing the locals: they didn’t get a show from us. Some very tame basking in the sun (fully clothed), and a brief toe dabble in the crisp sea.

A few couples played in the waves, the women wearing lycra three or four-piece suits that covered their entire bodies. Most wore head veils as well.

Several paces down the beach, a large older woman suddenly charged into the water, breasts swinging wildly under a floating pink floral muu-muu. She plunged into the sea, crashing headlong into the waves, laughing hysterically. Her joy could not be contained, and the infectious and boisterous laughter presented itself as a gift to those within earshot.

As we sat in the sun, watching the waves, I watched a young woman walking along the beach. Of the one hundred or so people at the beach, she was only one of twenty that actually braved the chilly Mediterranean water. She pranced along the edge of the sea, delightedly self-conscious, listening to the tinny music of a cell phone that she carried in her hand. Long, balloon pants clung tightly to her legs with the dampness of salt water, and the layering of three shirts covered fair skin from neck to wrists. Her hair and neck were free of scarf or veil, and she was visibly enjoying the feel of ocean breezes upon her scalp and neck. The young woman held her head high, flipping her braided pigtails about in the wind, and occasionally looking up to smile at the bright sun. She walked the beach, eager to be noticed, and relishing the freedom of a bare, wet head beneath hot sun and strong winds.

The veil or headscarf (hijab) of Muslim cultures is a heavily debated topic. Did you realize that its origins are cultural in nature, and not a result of Islamic teachings? Many Westerners consider hijabs to be an infringement on the rights of women, a form of oppression, and see it as an indication of female subordination. However, is this viewpoint shared by Islam, the “owner“ of this cultural practice? An Islamic text that I read while in Alexandria described the wearing of hijab by Muslim women to prevent harassment and to distinguish themselves from others, as a form of protection. The text relayed that it is important for believers to wear clothing that communicates modesty and reserve in the situations in which they find themselves.

I remember reading a passage in “A Thousand Setting Suns,” written by Khaled Hosseini. Set in Afghanistan, the principal character was discussing her feelings in regards to wearing a burka. She stated that she enjoyed the invisibility and anonymity afforded by her burka. She felt safe from the stares of men, the dirt of the city, and felt comfortable in her veiled camouflage. I certainly remember wishing for a similar camouflage in India, so I can understand the sentiments.

In Turkey, Tunisia, and Tajikistan, all Muslim-majority countries, the wearing of a head coverings has been banned in government buildings, schools, and universities. France has also banned the wearing of hijabs in all educational facilities. Does this seem fair? Who has the right to decide that wearing head scarves is discrimination, that it impedes the rights and freedom of women? It amazes me that people in the world fight this tradition and custom - the motive behind this custom has become so distorted.

Please feel free to share your own thoughts, ideas, or knowledge.

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Islam and Equality

written by Nathan

Visiting Egypt has been a lesson in ethnic diversity and cooperation. It is a place that has worked for more than fifteen centuries on nondiscrimination based on gender, race, or ethnicity. While it would be overly simplistic to say that this has always been successful or that no prejudices or sexism exist here today, it is a concept which comes directly from the most ancient teachings of Islam. [Islam makes it very clearly a sin to prejudice. Mohammad, in his last sermon says, “You are all equal. Nobody has superiority over others except through piety and good action.”]

As the teaching on righteous love of all humanity has been passed through to the modern age, Egypt has developed without the visible and suppressive context of racism. There are likely many forms of discriminations which are not obvious, many lower classes of people have not received the same levels of education and opportunity as some in the upper classes. But the genuine politeness, civility, respect, and equality in the interactions we see on the street here are a very important lesson for those of us who have come from places with more discriminating and prejudicial cultures or political classes. In Islam, the prophet Mohammad is very explicit, “An Arab is not superior to a non-Arab, and a non-Arab is not superior to an Arab. A white has no superiority over a back, nor does a black have superiority over a white. You are equal.”

Before ever arriving, I was expecting friendliness in the Arab world. Both my parents and grandparents had spent considerable time here before I was born and spoke very highly of the virtues of hospitality, generosity, and piety here.

With my grandfather, I had seen a ‘conflict of the Middle East’ from a USA perspective occurring in miniature, right before my eyes. After my grandmother had passed, my grandfather had mover in with one of his younger sisters, so that they could look after each other. But brother and sister had very different political views: my Aunt Inez was the spokesperson and matriarch for the most firebrand republicanism; my grandfather a ‘dyed in the wool’ progressive democrat. The two of them played out conflicts America was having in their living room; as the build up to the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq swirled around us all.

Most of their conflict occurred in front of the TV. Like many Americans, they were divided along media lines. When my Great-Aunt had on FOX news, my grandfather would berate the television as slanderous. When he would have his NPR tuned to the kitchen radio, Aunt Inez would ask him to please, ‘turn off that liberal mouthpiece.’ So, it went on.

But, my grandfather had lived with people of the Middle East. He knew them intimately. His coworkers had depended on him; and, they had saved his life on several occasions. This is why my grandfather was so distraught during his last years, over the conflicts erupting in the Middle East. He had lived all over the world and spent most of this time living in many different countries of the Middle East. He would tell me often (and FOX news during the staged conflicts performed by actor/news people), “Those Arabs are the kindest, most generous people in the world. This war is about lies!” I know better now how right he was…

Conflicts in the world, whether in the Middle East or elsewhere have not gone away entirely, despite the advocation of peace by Mohammad, Jesus, Buddha, Ghandi or the like. However, harmony between peoples occurs everywhere. The way we see this generalized non-prejudice manifested in Egypt is in the interactions which we see between people. There are couples of differing complexions. There are people of dark color in positions of power. More important, there is a general harmony. Missing in Egypt is the class and racial prejudice which is so internalized and oppressive in our western make up.

Now, it is easier to understand how truly devout Muslims, from parts of the world with great religious conflict, benefit from their Islamic pilgrimages. They can see with their own eyes and understand non-prejudice and cooperation and be hopeful. As Malcolm X said when he went to Mecca to perform Hajj: “My pilgrimage broadened my scope. It blessed me with new insight….I saw what I never had seen in thirty-nine years in America. I saw all races, all colors - blue eyed blonds to black skinned Africans - in true brotherhood! In Unity! Living as one! Worshipping as one!”

Travel is something which widens our perspective. Sometimes it gives us insight into harmony and togetherness where we did not know opportunities would exist. So, it is valuable for Muslim and non-Muslim alike to visit Egypt; to understand the value of sixteen centuries of intentional non-prejudice.

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Still We Pray

Today, setting out on a one speed bike - no hand brake, formerly foldable (rust) - toward Patrick's garden to weed plants, to the barber, and to follow old friend Marvini's advice and make an appointment for a dental check-up while in Thailand, I was to take my a left at the first stoplight intersection.

Thais drive on the 'wrong side' of the road; or if you are from a British Territory they drive on the right side (left); but they obey all the rules of turning like where I am from. Confused?

When you set out for your first bicycle ride in a totally new country (where street signs, languages, driving etiquette and the like are turned round or indecipherable), you may turn to prayer. I prayed the whole way down main street. This is not to say I was not elated. We love bikes. Passing two stoplights with no visible left turns, only very significant right turning lanes, at the third stop light I turned right and headed in the direction of signs which pointed to a mosque.

When I was passed simultaneously by a very large diesel bulldozer and two motorcycles on a turn with two trucks moving into my lane, I prayed. Then, I pulled into the mosque.

I parked my bike and took in the scene. A man in heavy head-covering was sweeping the yard with a broom made of fronds. [This custom is neither religious nor pious, all over hot climates the heaviest-dressed people - gloves, head scarves, long sleeve shirts and pants - are often those who work outside and need covering from the sun.] Several boys eating and horsing around. Conversation among mosque-faithful involving contents in a truck bed.

I approached the mosque, left my flip flops and tea container on the steps and went in. Inside, the cool airs were delicious. The place was spotless. There was a lone Thai gentleman sitting at a long table. He greeted me in English. "Hello, may I help you?" he asked. "I am here to visit the mosque." I replied. "Are you Muslim?" he asked. "No, I always visit Mosques when I am traveling." Then I added, "I come to pray for peace between all peoples."

"Welcome," he said, "this way please."

This is a point when many of us get nervous. 'What am I doing here?' we ask ourselves, 'Am I invading a sacred space?' or 'Am I being too presumptuous?'

The gentleman took me up the stairs. He opened the doors to the mosque. '"On Fridays," he told me, "this room is full of our people praying."

The room was stark. Entirely open. There were no images, statues, or noteworthy architectural details. I stood outside and said a silent prayer for peace between our peoples.

We turned to leave. Out of a moment of uncertainty, my host suddenly turned back as we began towards the stairs. He reached toward a lock and opened the glass doors to a balcony overlooking the courtyard and beckoned me to join him. As we walked out, he brushed his feet in front of him, scurrying leaves and lizards, (making certain, I imparted, to move any unseen scorpions or venomous centipedes out of our path). "From here," he told me "you can see all of Trat." A carpet of tropical green stretched out in every direction in front of us.

When we got to the bottom of the stairs my host asked me if I would like tea. I told him I had brought my own. He asked me how I had gotten here. I said I had ridden my bike. He asked me where I lived. I said Louisiana.

I pray for the forgiveness of all those who offer their sincere courtesy and graciousness to me and to whom I do not have the courage and manners to accept.

As I crossed the courtyard I received smiles, hello's, and thank you's from all those I passed on my way in. A toothless older man approached me and asked me several questions in Thai to which I smiled. He smiled. We waved. As I got on my bike and rode out of the gates I saw in adjacent shops women in burkas preparing all sorts of inviting snacks. As I made a turn in the bend and saw the main road beyond fields of elephant ears in front of me, I heard the call to prayer rise up distantly behind me. Still, I prayed.

Across the tiny piece of Asia which we have traversed, we have constantly aimed to be good ambassadors, and to encounter our host cultures where they were, and to reciprocate the openness of these holy places with respect, enthusiasm, and deference. We have consistently been met with kindness and appreciation for what it is we do.

This whole trip we have encountered many different religions. At last count, we had been to places of worship for Shintoism, Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism, Christianity, Islam, Brahmanism, and Falun Gong. I left out Communism and King Worship (Veneration) off the list, because many would argue these are not formal religions. I know I am leaving other places of worship out - please accept our apologies - there is much we miss and do not fully understand.

For understanding respect and deference still we pray.

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