Ghana and Togo for Travelers

>> April 27, 2010

We arrived at the Accra airport on 4/21/2010 and left four weeks later. In Ghana we visited only Accra, and in Togo we visited Lome and Aneho.

VISAS
We wrote a blog on our experience of arriving in Accra sans-Visas. With our two day transit visas, we traveled to Togo by bus, which is only 2-3 hours by bus, and 5-6 cedis per person. Upon arriving at the border, we obtained a seven day Togo visa which cost us 15,000 Togo dollars each. We thought that we might go all the way through Benin to Lagos, but the visa for Benin was only two days, and cost 10,000 Togo dollars. Although unable to confirm our assumptions, we would most like need to pay again at each border to cross back through. While in Lome we visited the Ghana embassy and secured our 30 day visas. So, instead of paying $150 USD each at the Accra airport for a 30 day Ghana visa, we paid a total of $91 USD ($20 Ghana transit + $8 transportation to Togo + $20 seven day Togo Visa + $40 Ghana visa from the embassy in Togo + $3 in required visas photos that we forgot to bring with us + $8 transportation back to Accra) each. The excess of almost $60 paid for our hotels, food, and general fun in Togo. Accra is more expensive than Togo, so we made out pretty well.

VISA AND MASTERCARD
If you happen to be traveling with a Mastercard debit card, almost none of the banks will accept it. EXCEPT Stanbic Bank! We were delighted to figure this out halfway through our trip. The branch we used was on Ring Road, behind Asylum Down.

LOME, TOGO
Lome has a few hotels to choose from, we definitely feel that we found the best one. Hotel Patience is very close to the BTCI building on the main boulevard, two blocks toward the ocean and one block heading down the boulevard. Just ask, people know where it is. We got a room for two, with private bath (cold water shower), cable television (with three channels, all in French), outlet, and an ancient but powerful standing fan for 4,500 Togo francs ($9 USD). Friendly staff, great location, only downside is the sometimes-raucous and late-night church choir across the street at Zion (we made the mistake of staying there the first night - same price, but the Friday night music rattled our room ALL night).

BTCI is a major bank in Lome and the only one that would accept one of our Visa debit cards. All of West Africa is without (to our knowledge) Mastercard facilities. Take cash to exchange or ensure that you have a few Visa cards on hand.

In Lome, motocycles are much less expensive than taking taxis, assuming you can handle the thrill. The drivers are generally extremely good drivers and don’t poke fun if you ask them to slow down. The price for motos is 100-250 Togo francs.

ACCRA
We really enjoyed our stay at the Times Square Lodge in Asylum Down. Not too many foreigners around and it was within (courageous) walking distance of downtown and other fun neighborhoods. Our room for two was 20 cedis per night: large, spacious room with ceiling fan and outlet. Very clean shared bath and shared tub/bucket shower. Pleasant and friendly staff. Good deal in a city where you can’t find a hotel much cheaper….we looked.

OUTSIDE ACCRA
The beach in Accra is kinda gross. Better to take a bus 2 hours west and spend a few days in nearby Winneba. This University town has many hotels, but a visitor quickly realizes that many of these are rented out long-term to students. There are a few options right on the lovely St. Charles Beach, our recommendation is Manuel’s: 20 cedi’s a night for a rather nice room, fan, quiet, bright white sheets, private bath, two beds.

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