A Grafitti Park grows in Stockwell

Neither Stockwell nor Brixton have historically been viewed by mainstream observers as the fountains of aesthetics.

You do not learn about Brixton at the Academy. however, those of us interested in contemporary art or modern urban history are likely to find ourselves in stranger places. London, to world travelers, may seem tame in its roughest edges. Art, however, is not tame here. Projects are being developed. One which grabbed my eye way the Signal Project.

While Stockwell and Brixton have always been contemporary and artistic in the heaps on aesthetics they shed upon the modern cosmopolitan mind of London, I am not a scholar of English urban history. What I do is blog, blogging, and walking or some combination in between. And when I have time to pause, I pick up the local free papers, the local art papers, or a wifi/internet signal and research what I can turn up.

This blog turned up from the Thursday edition of the Evening Standard on graffiti gardening.

It is a terrific story (which you can link to above). Public art, 'spray can art' or outsider neo-art is what some of us think of as a new revolutionary spirit. It is embraced, disgraceful, misunderstood. It is highly debatable. It is a challenge to get a hold on whether you have read Banksy or prefer to simpy accept mottos. Solo's motto is often painted on the walls of the ball courts of stockwell and Brixton, "Say Something Beautiful or Be Quiet." I have said something similar in my revious blogs on the subject. Graffit can be damaging and offensive without purpose, or without even meaning to not have purpose. It can be venally vain.

It can also be a powerful movement for uplifting rises of power in marginalized communities. It sometimes can say what we have thought but not heard. It can replace and undermine the worlds of consumerism, advertising, and corporations. It is powerful. It cannot be turned off.

Like the arts and sciences this public art incorporates, is incorporated, shares and crosses boundaries with what it means to be human, social, cultural, individual. It can be as simple as the biases we already have, graffiti belongs with rap, breakdance, basketball, being black. It can be as ritzy and accepted by art forums as Banksy's wonderful book Wall and Piece.

London is not so shallow. It is multi-cultural (probably the multicultural capital of Europe).

Solo-one, the hero of our insider article, sees graffiti as feeding young people with positive ideas. "You have to have the heart to do it..." he says, tagging as opposed to art can, bring neighborhoods to the brink of "descending into madness." Art and the ability to pursue the skills of being an artist and perfecting the artistic craft is an agreed upon ethic that crosses generations of street artists whether they are well known or invisible. "If it is good, the walls are better off plain." Solo-One says, "Sacrifice is important. If a piece has only taken 20 minutes I know the artist's heart wasn't in it."

What is the difference really between the honing of artistic craft today and the construction of great murals, mosaics, and other public art pieces of the past?

In today's London, some of the best, most loved contemporary art can be found in the outdoors. Galleries are tucked between forgotten streets and along abandoned industry and rail yards. There are galleries tucked into the vacant spaces (read: parks) in Stockwell Park Estates. This is the domain of Solo-One and his kindred spirits. "This is a safe-place for kids to learn how to paint," he says, and to understand the commitment it takes to be a good writer."

Today we are off to the Meeting of Styles, it is an important part of our trip to London. We will try and guide ourselves to finding a Banksy tour beginning Waterloo underneath the railway arches... that is all we have right now to work with. Art it seems is never far nor hard to find.

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Ghana and Togo for Travelers

We arrived at the Accra airport on 4/21/2010 and left four weeks later. In Ghana we visited only Accra, and in Togo we visited Lome and Aneho.

VISAS
We wrote a blog on our experience of arriving in Accra sans-Visas. With our two day transit visas, we traveled to Togo by bus, which is only 2-3 hours by bus, and 5-6 cedis per person. Upon arriving at the border, we obtained a seven day Togo visa which cost us 15,000 Togo dollars each. We thought that we might go all the way through Benin to Lagos, but the visa for Benin was only two days, and cost 10,000 Togo dollars. Although unable to confirm our assumptions, we would most like need to pay again at each border to cross back through. While in Lome we visited the Ghana embassy and secured our 30 day visas. So, instead of paying $150 USD each at the Accra airport for a 30 day Ghana visa, we paid a total of $91 USD ($20 Ghana transit + $8 transportation to Togo + $20 seven day Togo Visa + $40 Ghana visa from the embassy in Togo + $3 in required visas photos that we forgot to bring with us + $8 transportation back to Accra) each. The excess of almost $60 paid for our hotels, food, and general fun in Togo. Accra is more expensive than Togo, so we made out pretty well.

VISA AND MASTERCARD
If you happen to be traveling with a Mastercard debit card, almost none of the banks will accept it. EXCEPT Stanbic Bank! We were delighted to figure this out halfway through our trip. The branch we used was on Ring Road, behind Asylum Down.

LOME, TOGO
Lome has a few hotels to choose from, we definitely feel that we found the best one. Hotel Patience is very close to the BTCI building on the main boulevard, two blocks toward the ocean and one block heading down the boulevard. Just ask, people know where it is. We got a room for two, with private bath (cold water shower), cable television (with three channels, all in French), outlet, and an ancient but powerful standing fan for 4,500 Togo francs ($9 USD). Friendly staff, great location, only downside is the sometimes-raucous and late-night church choir across the street at Zion (we made the mistake of staying there the first night - same price, but the Friday night music rattled our room ALL night).

BTCI is a major bank in Lome and the only one that would accept one of our Visa debit cards. All of West Africa is without (to our knowledge) Mastercard facilities. Take cash to exchange or ensure that you have a few Visa cards on hand.

In Lome, motocycles are much less expensive than taking taxis, assuming you can handle the thrill. The drivers are generally extremely good drivers and don’t poke fun if you ask them to slow down. The price for motos is 100-250 Togo francs.

ACCRA
We really enjoyed our stay at the Times Square Lodge in Asylum Down. Not too many foreigners around and it was within (courageous) walking distance of downtown and other fun neighborhoods. Our room for two was 20 cedis per night: large, spacious room with ceiling fan and outlet. Very clean shared bath and shared tub/bucket shower. Pleasant and friendly staff. Good deal in a city where you can’t find a hotel much cheaper….we looked.

OUTSIDE ACCRA
The beach in Accra is kinda gross. Better to take a bus 2 hours west and spend a few days in nearby Winneba. This University town has many hotels, but a visitor quickly realizes that many of these are rented out long-term to students. There are a few options right on the lovely St. Charles Beach, our recommendation is Manuel’s: 20 cedi’s a night for a rather nice room, fan, quiet, bright white sheets, private bath, two beds.

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India for Travelers

We spent six weeks in India (February - March 2010), flying to Kolkata, then to Delhi, and departing from Mumbai. The following blog posting is a list of our experiences and takeaways. Please note that this is not intended to be a comprehensive travel guide, but is limited to our experiences and some tips that we think might be helpful for travelers.

We have very different opinions of India, most of which is directly influenced by our genders. Brittany found India to be overwhelming and male-dominated, which brought with it objectification and feelings of vulnerability because of being a woman. Wearing a headscarf helped to lessen the oggles and leers, but it was still a difficult land in which to travel. As a man, Nathan found the experience to be very different and much more enjoyable, but Brittany’s difficulties made him uncomfortable also. But India is wonderful and incredibly diverse and filled with delicious food, rich history, and kind people. But Indians are also very inclined to “fleece” foreigners at nearly every opportunity; it’s just part of travel there. The sooner you accept it, the easier your trip will be.

If you are traveling to Africa (specifically in our case, Ethiopia) stock up on gold bangles and other gold jewelry…the replicas of course. They are so incredibly cheap in India, but the women in Ethiopia were ga-ga for them, even when they knew that they were fake gold. I had so many offers to trade lovely silver jewelry, artwork, etc. for my bangles, I wished that I had brought more that the ones I wear daily.

For the ladies: there are special “ladies compartments” on the city trains in India. Take them. Don’t even hesitate. In such a male-dominated country, it’s a real treat to be in the midst of such beautiful and brightly attired women; they will be happy to see you! Plus, the other compartments are uncomfortable and occasionally involve inappropriate touching that is difficult to prevent when packed into the steel car like sardines. If you are traveling with a guy, just make sure that you both know how many stops until you get off - sometimes you are so crowded that you cannot see the signs, you can only count the times that the trains stop.

Embrace the veg! You will most likely never miss meat, and if you do, head to a Muslim neighborhood for some cow.

Gandhi Ashram: Seagram. A wonderful place to stay and learn and contribute. Our experience here truly shaped our journey to India. However, accommodations are not free: 120 rupees/night + 40 rupees/day/food. A fantastic price, but better to be informed about the cost beforehand.

Hakman’s Grand Hotel: Mussoorie. Halfway down the mall, with views that overlook the Dun Valley. Rather outdated and slightly run-down hotel that was surely once a great lodge. Rooms have private baths and cable. 450 rupees off season and negotiation always an option. Keep your bathroom door closed…the monkeys like to come in and play!

Padni Nivas: Mussoorie. Much more expensive than the LP describes, but appears to be well worth the money. Sweet rooms and a lovely main building, Nivas is a historic hotel halfway down the mall with incredible views of Dun Valley. The best spot is a small and private cottage partway up the hill. Sprawling with well-kept gardens, pleasant staff, main building has dining room with lodge-style design (mounted heads and oversized wooden furniture). 1,000-2,500 rupees/night.

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