India for Travelers
>> March 17, 2010
We spent six weeks in India (February - March 2010), flying to Kolkata, then to Delhi, and departing from Mumbai. The following blog posting is a list of our experiences and takeaways. Please note that this is not intended to be a comprehensive travel guide, but is limited to our experiences and some tips that we think might be helpful for travelers.
We have very different opinions of India, most of which is directly influenced by our genders. Brittany found India to be overwhelming and male-dominated, which brought with it objectification and feelings of vulnerability because of being a woman. Wearing a headscarf helped to lessen the oggles and leers, but it was still a difficult land in which to travel. As a man, Nathan found the experience to be very different and much more enjoyable, but Brittany’s difficulties made him uncomfortable also. But India is wonderful and incredibly diverse and filled with delicious food, rich history, and kind people. But Indians are also very inclined to “fleece” foreigners at nearly every opportunity; it’s just part of travel there. The sooner you accept it, the easier your trip will be.
If you are traveling to Africa (specifically in our case, Ethiopia) stock up on gold bangles and other gold jewelry…the replicas of course. They are so incredibly cheap in India, but the women in Ethiopia were ga-ga for them, even when they knew that they were fake gold. I had so many offers to trade lovely silver jewelry, artwork, etc. for my bangles, I wished that I had brought more that the ones I wear daily.
For the ladies: there are special “ladies compartments” on the city trains in India. Take them. Don’t even hesitate. In such a male-dominated country, it’s a real treat to be in the midst of such beautiful and brightly attired women; they will be happy to see you! Plus, the other compartments are uncomfortable and occasionally involve inappropriate touching that is difficult to prevent when packed into the steel car like sardines. If you are traveling with a guy, just make sure that you both know how many stops until you get off - sometimes you are so crowded that you cannot see the signs, you can only count the times that the trains stop.
Embrace the veg! You will most likely never miss meat, and if you do, head to a Muslim neighborhood for some cow.
Gandhi Ashram: Seagram. A wonderful place to stay and learn and contribute. Our experience here truly shaped our journey to India. However, accommodations are not free: 120 rupees/night + 40 rupees/day/food. A fantastic price, but better to be informed about the cost beforehand.
Hakman’s Grand Hotel: Mussoorie. Halfway down the mall, with views that overlook the Dun Valley. Rather outdated and slightly run-down hotel that was surely once a great lodge. Rooms have private baths and cable. 450 rupees off season and negotiation always an option. Keep your bathroom door closed…the monkeys like to come in and play!
Padni Nivas: Mussoorie. Much more expensive than the LP describes, but appears to be well worth the money. Sweet rooms and a lovely main building, Nivas is a historic hotel halfway down the mall with incredible views of Dun Valley. The best spot is a small and private cottage partway up the hill. Sprawling with well-kept gardens, pleasant staff, main building has dining room with lodge-style design (mounted heads and oversized wooden furniture). 1,000-2,500 rupees/night.
We have very different opinions of India, most of which is directly influenced by our genders. Brittany found India to be overwhelming and male-dominated, which brought with it objectification and feelings of vulnerability because of being a woman. Wearing a headscarf helped to lessen the oggles and leers, but it was still a difficult land in which to travel. As a man, Nathan found the experience to be very different and much more enjoyable, but Brittany’s difficulties made him uncomfortable also. But India is wonderful and incredibly diverse and filled with delicious food, rich history, and kind people. But Indians are also very inclined to “fleece” foreigners at nearly every opportunity; it’s just part of travel there. The sooner you accept it, the easier your trip will be.
If you are traveling to Africa (specifically in our case, Ethiopia) stock up on gold bangles and other gold jewelry…the replicas of course. They are so incredibly cheap in India, but the women in Ethiopia were ga-ga for them, even when they knew that they were fake gold. I had so many offers to trade lovely silver jewelry, artwork, etc. for my bangles, I wished that I had brought more that the ones I wear daily.
For the ladies: there are special “ladies compartments” on the city trains in India. Take them. Don’t even hesitate. In such a male-dominated country, it’s a real treat to be in the midst of such beautiful and brightly attired women; they will be happy to see you! Plus, the other compartments are uncomfortable and occasionally involve inappropriate touching that is difficult to prevent when packed into the steel car like sardines. If you are traveling with a guy, just make sure that you both know how many stops until you get off - sometimes you are so crowded that you cannot see the signs, you can only count the times that the trains stop.
Embrace the veg! You will most likely never miss meat, and if you do, head to a Muslim neighborhood for some cow.
Gandhi Ashram: Seagram. A wonderful place to stay and learn and contribute. Our experience here truly shaped our journey to India. However, accommodations are not free: 120 rupees/night + 40 rupees/day/food. A fantastic price, but better to be informed about the cost beforehand.
Hakman’s Grand Hotel: Mussoorie. Halfway down the mall, with views that overlook the Dun Valley. Rather outdated and slightly run-down hotel that was surely once a great lodge. Rooms have private baths and cable. 450 rupees off season and negotiation always an option. Keep your bathroom door closed…the monkeys like to come in and play!
Padni Nivas: Mussoorie. Much more expensive than the LP describes, but appears to be well worth the money. Sweet rooms and a lovely main building, Nivas is a historic hotel halfway down the mall with incredible views of Dun Valley. The best spot is a small and private cottage partway up the hill. Sprawling with well-kept gardens, pleasant staff, main building has dining room with lodge-style design (mounted heads and oversized wooden furniture). 1,000-2,500 rupees/night.
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