Thailand for Travelers
>> February 20, 2010
Seventeen days in Thailand was just long enough for us. Mega-tourism throughout the country left us a bit battered; we were happy to land on the more peaceful island of Koh Kood with good friends. But keep in mind that our experience was limited to a short stay, our Thailand journey took us from Bangkok, to Trat, to Koh Mak, to Koh Kood, and back to Bangkok for our flight. Please note that this is not intended to be a comprehensive travel guide, but is limited to our experiences and some tips that we think might be helpful for travelers.
Although this tip seems to be limited to Bangkok, it’s a good one. All over the city are public purified water dispensaries: 1 baht for 1 liter. A MUCH better deal than buying bottles of water at the store, and think of all of the plastic you save! If you aren’t already traveling with a reusable bottle, by ONE bottle of water at the store for 7 baht, then refill it at the dispensary.
Tuk-tuks: read this blog posting about the tuk tuk scam in Bangkok. Tuk Tuks can be a fun way to see the city, but it’s better to know what you are getting yourself into…..
Motorbikes: We had a terrible, though extremely lucky, accident on a motorbike while in Thailand. Lessons learned include: when the shop renting you the bike says that it is only designed for one person, believe them and don’t just think that they are trying to rent you two to make a better profit. The horsepower on many motorbikes in Thailand is sub-par and leads to dangerous situations.
Basar Guesthouse: 87 Thana Gharoen Rd. Wang Krachae, Aumphur Muang. Trat. reservations and information: contact@basar.com, +66(0)39 523 247 / +66(0)89 905 5127. Lovely guesthouse with wifi, comfortable and friendly atmosphere; truly the best place in the town. 250-350 baht/night. Very few rooms, so count your blessings if you can get one. Pepsi the dog and a regular crowd of Noi’s friends make this place very special.
Bandin Eco Resort: Koh Kood. Tel 086-0522929, 086-5751889, bandinkokood@gmail.com. Under new management, and by far the cheapest place to stay on the island. Five bungalows are tucked among beautiful, lush gardens and an island-style planked dock leads over the water. The location is a bit tricky, best to email the owner and he will meet your boat upon your arrival. Staff is happy to help with motorbike rentals and transportation into the center of town (spread out). Close to a beautiful beach that is usually empty, one of the only such beaches on the island.
Shanti Lodge. Medium to high prices. Provides that easy-tourism complete package all at one site: tours, restaurant, massage (the masseuses could use a bit more training). Fantastic vibe, building has a great rustic theme with local character, nice bar/restaurant if you are chatty and want to meet other travelers. Expat owner has been around a long time. Staff is mildly helpful but lacks enthusiasm and English. Good Location. Read more...
Thailand is Booming with Tourism
>> February 18, 2010
I can say with certainty that I already love Thailand. Calm, friendly, honest people. A land of Buddhism that entices you quickly with its sweet flavors, fragrance of flowers, polite and gentle landscapes. It is entirely nonabrasive (we have stuck mostly away from the tourist path - 'walking streets,' the seedy brothel lore, the tired 'Cancun' and Disneyesque resort beaches to the south). Anyone with imagination or a taste for its rich history can easily see a charmed past and feel in its recent history, echoes. This is not a blog about that Thailand. This is what I wrote spontaneously on a slow diesel trawler as we crawled along the coast back to the furthest edge we could find away from Thai 'civilization.' After nearly two weeks on islands and in serene mangrove estuarine enclaves along the Thai Cambodian border here it is what I wrote. If it is for anyone, it is for the thoughtful and compassioned traveler. And, it is for the governments of Thailand, her neighbors, and the world community that flocks here. It is not meant as unfriendly. It is meant as a reminder to all of us who can ignore what role we play in the way the world develops.
It goes like this...
What would fix our world: By example from Thailand
Life has only ever taken me to moments.
In clarity in Evolutions.
I would see in a place all I loved and all at once.
Nothing like this ever came to me in Thailand.
Here, a debate with self, of new purpose, new pursuits.
China, India, Louisiana, ancestry vastly more polluted
These all ring with Life for me. Poor Thailand.
I am understanding very little here.
It sticks to my soul like a skin's lesion.
Thus, I reflect on other places, other times.
A first epiphany in Omaha, Nebraska. I am 17.
A urchin's port in Panama's Casco Viejo. I am 29.
Acrid sulfurs of country roads back home.
Distances of time. Memories held still.
Photographic emotional stillness.
Friends and acquaintances long gone.
Distances grown to revolutions.
Thailand, as ill as the planet we are healing.
Now, but now, but NOW, must remain sick, bedridden.
Venezuela, USA, The Indian Res
And all the old Colonies hovering below remark for it.
Darkness, falsely lit, in phantom shallows. A putritude.
Holding good which was evil disguised as good without evil.
A lost time. Dead monks littering roads between Buddhist countries.
Greeds, Pollutions, Degraded, Degrading.
Falsity, lacklusterness, undefined ruination with no common purpose.
Results of organized religion - Capital wealth.
King's of Ancient Nations trading arms and lands and death.
Kunckledusters who let ruin the golden gates.
What would fix our world? By example from Thailand...
"Kill the Buddha!"
....
To our lovely friends and all her kind people, forgive a wit in wrath.
This blog is going to be followed by a short series of positive inspirations about eco tourism, public environmental art, service projects that are self-starters (and work), green development lessons, new friendships and the like. But, I have to get this out there to get started on the rest.
We have two days until Calcutta, India. What can await us there?
Wrapping up Thailand, we have been enjoying the long New Year's celebrations, visiting craft, music, and food bazaars and festivals and wishing we had many of our good friends and family along to enjoy this place and make sense of what is happening here so that we should all become better stewards of the world our children's children and their children's children might one day inherit.
Thailand is Booming with Tourism. What can we learn from their losses and their fate? (A sad and deadly sickness of selfishness and mad advantages)
Adventures in Thailand
>> February 17, 2010
xoxo
How 'Bout dem SAINTS!!?
>> February 9, 2010
The Fire
>> February 7, 2010
A Chinese, an Australian, and a Spaniard walk into a Ball Room.
Each are the front-line managers for emergency and disaster response in a very populated, rather poor province of China. Every year, these managers are responsible for the organization of medical, disaster, and emergency response planners for an annual conference. It is always a joyful and convivial time filled with card swapping, networking, name dropping.
The Australian says to the Spaniard, “Did you know that in in our office of Regional and Provincial Emergency Response they have never had a fire drill? So, I asked them to look into having one; but, when we checked on the emergency exits they were all chained shut.”
The Spaniard stated, “We teach all about disaster preparation and response. We ask the community to participate and be involved in ways they have never been asked to do before in all of China. But, we can’t apply the same teaching in our own office.”
“Why is that?” the Australian asked. “The boss doesn’t like it for us to look bad.” the Spaniard replied.
The Chinese, who was listening closely, suggested they test participants and teach values of applied learning to bosses during their meeting. “Why don’t we have a fire drill here, at this very conference?“ he said.
The three NGO disaster experts made their plan.
II.
After lunch, when the many conference attendees reconvened, they passed their Spanish colleague, with his leg propped up on a chair. A Chinese friend was tending to his ankle, while the Spaniard grimaced in obvious pain. The Australian explained to the ogling crowds, “During lunch he was in an accident while crossing the street outside of the restaurant.” The Spaniard moaned; tears rolled down his face. Many people stopped by to sympathize and give advice.
After the conference-goers settled down in their big groups, a lazy, spacey wave of sleepiness blanketed the conference; people were tired. This was the third day of meetings and in good Chinese fashion, they had all feasted at a lunch hosted by the provincial governor. To address the predicted lethargy on day three, a local troupe of performers were scheduled to liven up the crowd with songs of legends and stories of the great resilience of the Chinese people in modern history. In contrast to the standard procedure of returning to their individual groups, the attendees were instructed to all meet in the same room for the performance, leaving their valises, purses, and other belongings at a coat check, so as to accommodate the large number of people.
Halfway through the second ballad a loud bell erupted with a sudden, screeching resonance. The hotel manager rushed into the room and yelled instructions through a megaphone: “There is a fire in the kitchen. Please remain calm, but exit the building immediately.”
Instincts were strong; people leapt over each other as they rushed from the room. Some groups stopped at the elevator. A hotel staff standing near the stairway yelled to them, “Don’t take the elevators, they are unsafe, you must use the stairs!”
Outside the group milled around in the street. Everyone seemed to be accounted for. A small older gentleman exclaimed with panic and shame in his voice, “Ricardo, our Spanish friend, where is he?” Several people tried to backtrack into the building. “You cannot go back,” the staff warned them. The crowd of brave souls rushed anyway.
At the bottom of the stairs was Ricardo, standing strong on his own two legs. “I am sorry to have fooled you,” he said.
III.
The fire was a drill, designed to test the responses of the conference attendees, all who were trained in disaster protocol, and who were responsible for passing their knowledge and education on to others.
At the end of the conference people were asked to review what they had learned, and fill out a survey. Overwhelmingly, most participants were compelled to write about the fire drill lesson. Most participants wrote about the lessons learned. They planned to change their teaching strategy in the future, and felt that real world practice would be a benefit not only to the community but to their team as well. Others were angry, and left feedback that stated that “It was wrong of you to trick us. Somebody could have been hurt. How could you trust the hotel staffs with our valises our laptops and all of our work could have been stolen!”
Some were shaken, some were embarrassed, some were grateful, and all (except the Chinese, the Australian, the Spaniard, and the hotel staff) were surprised.
IV.
China is a world of both lessons and contradictions. It can respond to disaster with massive force and mobility from across the country to provide aid. It can rebuild whole regions in almost the blink of an eye. But due to a hierarchical pyramid structures of decision making and policy development, China is unable to challenge assumptions of management. When the Chinese colleagues in the Provincial office wanted to apply the same standards to their office as they have begun to teach in small impoverished villages they were told that the systems they have work fine. Can we find similar qualities in our organizations?
Today, I visited a very different Disaster and Emergency Response Unit in Trat, Thailand. It is located in the most revered and trusted public meeting place in the town - a ‘Chinese Temple.’ They meet on the 20th of every month. The place is filled with all the necessary tools: historical photos and community archives of past emergencies, ambulances and rescue equipment, chairs and tables for everyday life and gatherings, and a stage for speakers and performance. Some of the meetings go on for hours, allowing time for food or refreshment, play-space for children, and time for elders to gossip, in addition to discussion of disaster planning and response.
Although sometimes just a drill, oftentimes the fire is real. How can we imagine ways in which community participation, especially in disaster planning, is encouraged in decision making, cultural resilience is nourished, and systems are scientific and responsive?
Deep Sighs of Contentment
>> February 6, 2010
Yesterday afternoon I heard an approaching sound, melodious and rumbling:
"Oh! Here comes the ice cream truck. Wait, it's a dried squid-on-a-stick truck."
Hello Thailand. Yes, I think I like you. Quite a lot.
The smog-filled and dense urban-scapes of China seem so far away. Even the harried tuk-tuk's of Bangkok seem a distant memory. But not so far away that I can't tell you about our experience.......
Have you been to Bangkok? If so, you have most likely been part of the "tuk tuk scam." We didn't understand until we saw an article posted in our hotel, explaining the complexity of this scam. All of a sudden, I was reading a synopsis of a huge chunk of our time in Bangkok, but luckily without the unhappy ending that so many tourists seem to find.
Next thing you know, you are ushered into a custom suit shop, or a jewelry store, or a handicraft bazaar, or a fine restaurant. Usually these shops are "government endorsed and controlled." Lies!! Many foreign visitors are pressured into purchasing low-quality, high-priced items, and don't figure out their error until arriving home with their low-grade Thai ruby ring.
Not necessarily dangerous (though the scam perpetuates negative experiences for travelers), but so incredibly annoying, especially as we ended up spending our first afternoon in a darn tuk-tuk, being shuttled from one store to another. We didn't want to seem rude, we wanted the driver to get his 'gas coupons,' and we tried again and again to explain our backpacking situation to the shop owners who were offering 'big sales.'
On the positive side, we did get to buzz around Bangkok in a tuk-tuk, enjoying the sights and smells, though our time visiting places of cultural or historical interest were highly abbreviated. But it never feels good to be scammed.
Check shutterfly soon for updated photos.
xoxo