The Souk is a Kindred Spirit

written by Nathan

 If China is the world’s largest importer of chicken feet, then Egypt must be the largest importer of beef liver. On the street, three things are ingested daily on every corner; tea (at all hours with sheesha), fuul at lunch (the original refried beans), and evenings are for liver. Use the word ‘sandwich’ at nearly any dining establishment serving food past 5PM and likely this is what you will get.

The souks, normal community food markets, as ancient as this part of the world, sell everything in season. Alexandria, the great port of Egypt, benefits from its delta, the river, and the sea. All sorts of fish and seafood are for sale with three predominant types being traditionally popular: small clams, shrimp, and BBQ whole fish (the BBQ fish is cooked in a crust of flours and spice to a burnt black).

There are all sorts of fresh fruits, vegetables, and herbs at the souks. Because ‘lower Egypt,’ has a green belt along the river that gets mild winters with freezes, all sorts of unexpected temperate fruits grow well here: apples, peaches, apricots, grapes, and other fruits are abundant.

Because of the ancient (hot) climate, as is most of the developing world, the market features products which must be consumed the same day. Pita bread, sold hot and fresh in every souk and neighborhood, has a shelf life of hours, not days. Herbs seem to wilt within minutes of being stuffed in bags. And, fruits and vegetables which are most popular will last a couple days without refrigeration.

There are also many things in the market which we don’t recognize: Very bitter brown cheeses we mistook for a sesame sauce; beautiful pans of fresh grape leaves (surrounded by herbs and other greens we never did figure out); new Mediterranean fishes, and volumes of pickled delights.

It would be hard to say what my favorite thing is about the market, strolling it, taking in the vigorous bargaining, the market alley cats, the flop of live fish. Perhaps, it is in finding that perfect ingredient: tiny okra, saffron hued golden smoked fish, ripe strawberries. I think it is the friendship, the bargain, and the universality of merchants mixing with families which draws me to markets. In Egypt, the souk is an age old kindred spirit.

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A Glimpse of Alex

Here in Alexandria, the tangy Mediterranean air brings to life the smells of the city, and the salty air seems to amplify smells as does salt to food. The fragrance of dripping bunches of parsley and cilantro and dill and the creamy fluff of fresh feta cheese winds amidst the smoky tendrils of sheesha coming from the men seated at outdoor cafés.

Narrow streets carry the scents of buttery croissants being pulled from vast ovens and the brilliant gasps of succulent flowers in the form of essential oils. Mountains of cookies and pastries oozing with gritty fig paste haunt the early mornings. And the soft smells of pillowed pita bread heaped upon wheeled carts and the dusky smell of carriage horses line the waterfront promenade.

On the other side of the lagoon, close to the water, shrimp are artfully arranged into piles according to price. The elaborate designs remind me of bento boxes of the East: patterns and shapes and curves formed by crustacean bodies. Smoked fish of burnished gold are placed, four to a group, in hand-woven wicker baskets.

Cats stalk the restaurants, hopping atop the tables to steal scraps before waiters come to clear the dishes, clawing the upholstered chairs to shreds when no one is watching. They sprawl over entire park benches, curl up on car hoods in the warm morning sun, and self-righteously take their places along market stalls and beneath shwarma ovens, awaiting a savory mishap in their favor.

Dark eyes hover beneath bruised lumps on the foreheads of Muslim men; badges of devout daily prayer are visible testaments to strong faith. The melodic low tones of evening prayer sweep hauntingly below the shrill honking of taxis and the rumbling of city buses.

A port of call that feels like home, one to which we will soon return.

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Flavors and sounds and rhythms and chopsticks

A muggy, sticky, perfect morning in Thailand.....we are here and enthusiastically discarding our bulky winter layers.

Leaving China had a few snafus, a few hiccups, but we persevered.

Did you know that a tourist visa in China mandates that you leave every 30 days, even if you get a 90 visa? Nobody in Tokyo bothered to tell us. China wasn't pleased. 

Do you always confirm your reservation before your flight to ensure that not complications exist? We didn't and ended up having to pay for our own ticket from HK to Bangkok (which our awesome travel agency is going to reimburse us for), and we were totally stressed out (no reimbursement, but a learning experience).

Our last few days in China were tinged with anticipatory nostalgia for a country that we really grew to love and appreciate and (vaguely) understand. Wandering through Guangzhou one afternoon, we talked about how dramatically our comfort level had altered while we were in China. I being incredibly disoriented during our first few days in Shanghai: nearly everything was uncomfortable and foreign, especially when flooding my senses all at once. I remember feeling panicked the moment that someone opened their mouth and Chinese came forth; I was so anxious about not knowing the language that I froze, I was solely focused on the un-understandable. Gradually I stopped being so caught up in the unknown, and focused on the things that I could understand: smiles, body movement, intonation, context, and a few simple words. It was as though I had a sensory loss like deafness or muteness: with the deficit of one sense, my other senses strengthened.

It takes some time even just to start to understand the flow of people on the sidewalk, how to pay at the convenience store,what the toilet etiquette is. Flavors and sounds and rhythms and chopsticks are sensory gifts for western travelers, you just have to taste them, listen for them, feel them, and practice!!

I wouldn't say that I miss the hole-in-the-ground, trough-style toilets of China (the western-style in HK were such a lovely surprise), but I certainly managed. I assimilated. Several times, I was even appreciative and grateful.

Throughout our journey down China, we encountered many markets (see photos on our site). We love markets, especially the open-air, fresh food, local produce variety. Obviously, these come with a wide variety of goods, some more unusual than others. But the meat section gets weird, especially as animals are cured, preserved, sliced, diced, and usually displayed in very recognizable forms, usually completely intact, and oftentimes with heads attached. The cows and pigs and chickens were normal, comfortable, expected. The ducks and geese were fairly basic. Then we get to frogs, turtles, eels, hammerhead shark, goat, and yes, the horror of all horrors...dogs.* It was difficult. There were some markets where my stomach started heaving, my palms got sweaty, I was terrified of barfing right there in the midst of it. But I worked actively on my western aversion: I systematically desensitized my brain. I studied the market from a scientific point of view until my emotions moved back to second place. Please don't get me wrong - I'm not made of steel, but I found a way to come to terms with the scene, which allowed me to enjoy and appreciate China on a new level.

All in all, we miss China. We feel so lucky and blessed to have experienced such a land, and are ever so grateful to the many, many people who welcomed us with open arms. 

Now....on to Thailand...........

xoxoox

*I'm happy to tell you more about the markets and the contents within; however, I won't expound on these here for those readers who are faint of heart.

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Luck, with a Side of Black-Eyed Peas

Here we are in Guangdong province, home to a mere 90 million Chinese and the mega metropolitan super city Guangzhou (formerly known in the West as "Canton"). I am up early today to cook for our Milanese host Pietro and some of his friends. After an incredibly colorful shopping trip through Cantonese markets close to the old French Concession, I will be preparing black eyed peas and cabbage with ham, two of the "good luck" staples I grew up on in New Orleans (corned beef is also traditional, but may be harder to secure with only two days in Guangzhou). I am glad we are traveling with Cajun Shake, Tabasco and Crystal hot sauces, and bay leaves so that we may enhance our beans with goodness from home!

I certainly come from a tradition of food + good luck. My mother's pot of peas was her usual holiday party excuse to gather friends and  family and wish us all her best in year ahead. So, I am sharing the tradition in China. Chinese also learn much of luck and imbibe or indulge in the good fortunes or luck for festivity, medicinally, or superstitiously. The Chinese are thoroughly delighted that Brittany and I were married on September 9, 2009, and reiterate that the date indicates "love" and "forever." 

While visiting Hunan province, we learned of salted meats and buried salted-duck eggs which, while eaten all year, were prepared in larger quantities in preparation for Spring Festival (Chinese New Year). I can guarantee our readers that in Hunan and Changsha, all varieties of spicy chilis, chutneys, dried or relished peppers, garlics, pickles, kimchi, and the like are also being prepared this time of year to share with family and honored guests (just writing this, my eyes water, and I can feel the pleasant and familiar burns along the gullet!!). 

Medicinal wines, strong rice wines, fruit wines, and distilled moonshines are also always produced and aged for the holidays in Hunan, as well as for most of southern China! These wines are part of the many thousands of years of Chinese Medicinal History and usually have roots, herbs, barks in them as well as assortments of odd animals and their parts (scorpions, frogs, and snakes are oftentimes drowned into the liquid). 

I'm not sure that Pietro cooks dishes with auspicious measurements or lucky ingredients in mind, but we certainly have nothing short of pure and delicious luck in meeting him. Pietro has a "private kitchen restaurant," and hosts both private dinners and catering services to anyone lucky enough to know of Amici Miei. Last night he treated us to home-cooked porketta, lasagna, pickles, chutneys, spicy homemade mustard, fresh italian bread and sicilian syrah! We have given him a package of some spicy Cajun Hot sticks jerky….the last of our gifts from Louisiana (Zachary, LA). 

We are fine, off to cross border to Hong Kong in next day or so, very sad to be leaving China....but excited still to keep encountering the world!!

Lots of love from Canton!!!

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