Showing posts with label home. Show all posts
Showing posts with label home. Show all posts

Who stands up in the basement cell?

>> June 3, 2010

Three women kneel on dusty ground, speaking in hushed tones through a small basement grate. Blue box trucks stack behind them with three little white hats peering off of bench seats out back; smoking, jostling.

Two of the women are older. Dressed in black covering, the eldest has one hand clenched, supporting her heavy weight as she kneels and bends; her other had pressed against the chain grate. She is not crying.

This is a lonely scene. While the bustle of barristers, onlookers, and policemen fill the street; and noise of streetcars and horse bugs clang along the city’s tracks, none pay notice to mourning mothers.

Why bother them? They are doing their duty. They have sacrificed their morning to be here with a lost son and husband. No consolation is as complete as nursing the confidences of their family member.

Who stands up in the basement cell? What is their condemnation?

Life comes to its undesired crossroads when a family member is incarcerated.

Here at this former palace of Alexandria, a long history of cruelties and condemnations have befallen many families. Families plead many loved ones innocence. The blue trucks arrive from across the region. Each carry a single cargo. Each are met by the bearers of family sustenance, suffering, compassion.

During times of capital punishment, the yard beside these courts was stained with a vulgar gaiety of public executions - and beside us lies the graveyard to the condemned. It is a solemn, silent, tombless place.

Northern winds punish the silver grey clouds trying to make land from a cool grey sea. Trashy dust lifts in sighs from around feet and hoof. Horns and calls of vendors go unanswered - are muted against caravans of prison blue trucks.

Authorities outside the court make small talk. They whisper deals on corners and side yards. Silent prayer and broken gazes seem to permeate out from darkened cell windows. Cigarettes are meted out a plenty.

Across the street, more jovial tones of business. Men gather in cafes, smoking sheesha, drinking dark tea, reading newspapers. Could their lives befall the curse of the jailer, the executioner? Maybe some, many not. It is an age old tale of poverty, circumstance, powerlessness. This is the seat of enforced governance.

Three women kneel unobserved by the crowds. They are speaking in hushed tones through a small basement grate. Who stands up in the basement cell? Who draws such selfless love?

The dust will not settle. It is a sand yellow day in shadow. A forgotten graveyard metes out offers.


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Footnote: This was written in anticipation of probing feminism in the Middle East....

There is no doubt that most of the world lives and suffers highly patriarchal societies. Women are often marginalized populations, not able to enjoy the same freedoms and opportunities as men. While I have read much in Islamic literature here in the Middle East about feminist Islamic society and the equality espoused in the holy Quran towards women, it does not appear so obvious in real life and social norms. I want to know what women would seek to be freer from controls of patriarchal society. The west, where women ostensibly have freedom and opportunity, bears out in statistical data much cruelty and violence directed at women; that does not occur in other more male dominated cultures. How is this possible?


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Familiar Faces

>> May 1, 2010

Here in Lome, Togo, the weather mimics that of a New Orleans summer: morning is June, noon feels like July, and mid-afternoon is the mind-melting, hallucination-inducing, detour-as-far-as-necessary-to-keep-to-the-shade, sweltering heat of August. The familiar climate, combined with the news of great performances at the 2010 JazzFest makes me makes me nostalgic for New Orleans. I love being where I am, but some of the things and places and people I love so dearly seem so far away.

Although we travel to South America with regularity, we have friends there. We have people who we regard as family. Home doesn’t seem quite as distant when there are familiar faces and voices. Our time in Colombia usually has some length; we settle in for a while. We get the scoop on the latest gossip, and we continue conversations started the day before. Long distance travel hasn’t these luxuries. Part of the magical experience is consistently being on the move, seeing and learning and experiencing so much in a short(ish) period of time. But with this mode comes an inability to connect on a deeper level, to delve deeper into the personalities of the people you meet, to grasp a larger, deeper concept of the place you are visiting. Because, after all, you are A Visitor. A lucky one, and hopefully a grateful one, but a Visitor just the same.

It seems to have been around the four-month travel mark that I began seeing people I knew out in the big wild world. Well, people who looked like people I know: a look-alike T.S. in India driving us through Mumbai; a man who was assuredly Kermit Ruffin’s brother (same big smile and dapper hat); a laugh that made me whip around, expecting to see Becky, her head thrown back in giggles. Faces and expressions and shapes and tonalities of voice lurch me from where I am, to the life we have left behind (albeit briefly in the grand scheme of things).

We spent one night in Aneho, Togo, close to the beach. At our hotel was a dog that must have been the sister of my grandmother’s dog, “Got-to.” Maybe a little big sweeter, a bit older, slightly lazier, but still the same darn dog.

Exploring our hotel options in Accra last week, we popped into the “Royal Hotel” for a peek. If my eyes had been closed, I would have sworn on my life that we had walked into my grandmother’s bungalow in Eliot, Maine. My footsteps resounded in the same way on the thinly carpeted floor, the air was heavy with the odor of age and books and mothballs, and the room had a slight salty tang that had seeped into the walls over time.

A dog in the night sounds like Nutter, and I grumble through my dreams for her to hush up.

Someone in our current hotel, Hotel Patience, wears perfume that smells of Tamar. I’m not sure if it is my aunt of childhood, or if she still wears the same scent. But I find myself disappointed when I walk into the lobby and she isn’t there.

Who will be our first, true, familiar face. Will it not be until our visit with Aunt Nancy and Uncle Nat in Brittany? Or perhaps Melissa in Turkey? Where in the world is Peter? Chris, don’t tease, will we see you in Morocco? And that crazy travelin’ Robin, always in a new corner of the globe…come to our corner! Where are your familiar faces? I see you all everywhere, but it turns out not to really be you.

There are reminders of you everywhere. I see you; I hear you; I smell you; I miss you. You are never as far away as our National Geographic world map seems to indicate.

Halfway from home, halfway ‘till we are back again.

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